Transforming a Vintage Diamond Ring into a Wearable 22ct Gold Engagement Ring
The Proposal
S proposed to M with a vintage 22ct diamond ring, inherited from his family. He intended to design the ring together with M, so he proposed using the 'raw materials' and discreetly planned a visit to my workshop.
Designing the Engagement Ring
We sat together to review the details of the ring, sketching options for the beautiful old cut diamond. We decided on a very simple design, maximising the high-quality materials while ensuring the design remained timeless.
22ct gold is relatively soft, but S & M wanted to keep the gorgeous, rich color without alloying it to a lower carat. To make the setting as strong as possible, I suggested thick claws, which would be sturdier and less likely to bend.
Recutting the Damaged Old Cut Diamond
When I dismantled the original ring, I discovered a hidden secret: the diamond was chipped! Despite common belief, diamonds can indeed be broken. They are among the hardest materials on Earth, but they can also be brittle, particularly around their edges.
The years of wear on this stone have resulted in some light chipping and slightly sharp edges. This wasn't noticeable in the old setting, so none of us could have anticipated it. It's simply one of the risks involved when working with recycled materials.
Fortunately, I know an excellent diamond cutter who managed to re-cut and polish the stone, restoring its smooth edges. Although this process involves removing some of the diamond, resulting in a slightly lighter stone, a skilled diamond cutter will minimize the loss to the stone's body.
Hand Making the 22ct Gold Engagement Ring
I began by melting down all the original 22ct yellow gold and adding just a little more, so I would have extra material to play with. I stretched out a thin sheet of metal in my rolling mill and then traced around the diamond to establish the correct size for the base of the setting.
After cutting out the setting, I placed all the golden offcuts back onto my hearth and remelted them to create wire for the remainder of the ring. The majority of this wire forms the band of the ring, but I set aside a small portion to make round wire for the setting's claws.
I pulled a short piece of round wire and divided it into four parts. Next, I tapered the ends of the claws to give them a lighter appearance and temporarily attached them to the setting using my welder. After ensuring they were secure, I soldered them in place. Once the setting was solid, I bent the wire ends inward to create a tidy basket beneath the diamond.
I utilized all the leftover metal to create a D-shaped wire for the ring's band. I molded it into a circle, then hammered a section to create the ring's raised shoulders. I added additional metal underneath to bridge them and filed down the shoulders to achieve a clean taper. Once satisfied with their shape, I soldered in the handmade setting and started sanding everything to a smooth finish.
The Final 22ct Gold & Diamond Engagement Ring
Once the diamond was set and the claws were trimmed, the ring was prepared for a final polish. We chose to apply a light, matted texture to avoid excessive shine, allowing the rich, warm hue of the 22ct gold to stand out. The completed piece is a chunky, classic solitaire, with the off-round diamond adding a modern touch.
Do you have a piece you'd like to rejuvenate? Contact me to learn more about commissioning a custom jewellery piece.
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